The town where I grew up is on the north-east coast of England, about an hour from Newcastle. It's the kind of place that most people drive through without stopping. My grandfather, who was born there in 1938, worked at the port all his life. The port, which was once the busiest on that part of the coast, closed in the eighties, and many families lost their main income. We lived in a narrow house that looked straight out at the sea. The room I slept in was at the top, and on windy nights I could hear the waves. The house has been sold twice since then, and the people who live there now have painted it bright blue. Last summer I went back for a weekend. In a café near the harbour I met an old man whose father had worked with my grandfather. He remembered the winter when the harbour froze, something my grandfather had told me about, but I had never quite believed. We talked for two hours, and before I left he showed me an old photo that he kept in his wallet: both our families on the beach, all smiling at the camera.
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